What's new for 2010 03 28 build:

- Added Green Tiger Barb as an alias to Tiger Barb.
- Added Hystrix Stingray (Potamotrygon hystrix).
- Added Geophagus sp Red Head Tapajos.
- Added Blue Ram as an alias to German Blue Ram.
- Added Cyprichromis sp. Leptosoma Jumbo.
- Added Cameron Armoured Shrimp (Atyopsis gabonensis).
- Added Blue Pearl Shrimp (Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis var. blue).
- Added Melanochromis cyaneorhabdos.
- Added Tramitichromis sp. Intermedius.
- Increased bioload for Red Terror.
- Silver Dollar and Discus have been marked as incompatible to each other.
- Increased bioload for Scatophagus argus.
- Temperature requirement for Cardinal Tetra has been raised to 24-30.
- Increased bioload for Kissing Gourami.
- Tea Cup Stringray has been detached from Motoro Stingray's alias. It is now set as a 14inch species. Its scientific name has been assigned to Potamotrygon scobina.
- Increased bioload for Clarias Catfish.
- Increased bioload for Green Chromide.
- Updated temperature requirement for Dwarf Gourami - minimum has been reduced to 23.
- Size of Ornate Birchr has been reduced to 24 inches. Minimum tank size requirement has also been reduced to 72x24.
- Increased bioload for Frontosa.
- Size of Polypterus Bichir Lapradei has been reduced to 25 inches. Minimum tank size requirement has also been reduced to 60x24.
- Aggression for Bleeding Heart Tetra has been increased slightly.
- Increased bioload for Mayan Cichlid.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Weeksi Bichir has been reduced to 72x24.
- Increased bioload for Trimac.
- Size of Cyprichromis Leptosoma has been reduced to 4.5 inches.
- Increased bioload for The Pearl Eartheater.
- Aggression for Red Phantom Tetra has been reduced slightly.
- Size of Giant Gourami has been increased to 30 inches. Bioload has been increased correspondingly as well.
- Increased bioload for Nimbochromis livingstonii.
- Increased bioload for Silver Prochilodus.
- German Blue Ram has been marked to produce "food" warning when smaller shrimps are present.
- Increased bioload for Chuco Cichlid.
- Bolivian Ram has been marked to produce "food" warning when smaller shrimps are present.
- Some other more aggressive small species will also produce similar warning messages against smaller shrimps.
- Increased bioload for Black Diamond Cichlid.
- Aggression for Honey Blue Eye has been reduced slightly.
- Warning about possibilities of jump has been added to Red Tail Black Shark and Rainbow Shark.
- Increased size of Rummynose Tetra to 2 inches.
- Adjusted minimum height requirement for all species. Extreme cases like a 100g tank with 1 inch height will produce warnings.
- Aggression for Honey Gourami has been reduced.
- Betta splenden male and Gouramies together will show a warning.

- Added Penn Plax Cascade Canister filters - 700/1000/1200/1500.

- Added Oceanic Biocube series tanks.
- Added Red Sea Max series tanks.
- Added Current Aquapod series tanks.
- Added 24g D-D Nano Cube 24 tank.

- Total number of tanks in DB has been increased to 79.
- Total number of filters in DB has been increased to 288.
- Total number of species in DB has been increased to 836.

To access the application, please click on AqAdvisor site.

If you have any species that are missing in AqAdvisor DB, please let me know!!!

What's new for 2010 04 04 build:

- Added Dimidiochromis compressicep.
- Added Dimidiochromis strigatus.
- Added Sunset Platy (Xiphophorus variatus).
- Added Cherry Spot Rasbora (Rasbora rubrodorsalis).
- Added Sunset Platy (Xiphophorus variatus).
- Added Flower/Wood shrimps as alias to Bamboo Shrimp.
- Added Marble Goby (Oxyeleotris marmorata).
- Added Twig Catfish (Farlowella vittata).
- Added Reticulated Stingray as an alias to Teacup Stingray.
- Added Riffle Shrimp (Australatya striolata).
- Bioload of Bahia Red has been increased slightly.
- Bioload of Geophagus sp Orange Head Tapajos has been reduced slightly.
- Bioload of Redhead Severum has been reduced slightly.
- Spawning aggression for Apistogramma species have been reduced slightly.
- Bioload of Zebra Tilapia has been increased slightly.
- Added Rhino/Alligator Pleco (Pterygoplichthys scrophus).
- Bioload of Cyrtocara moorii has been increased slightly.
- Spawning aggression for Angelfish & Altum Angels have been reduced slightly.
- Bioload of Macaw Cichlid has been increased slightly.
- Minimum tank size for Needlenose Gar has been reduced to 48x18.
- Bioload of Lepomis megalotis has been increased slightly.
- Size of Yellow Lab has been increased to 4.5 inches.
- Size of P Acei has been increased to 5 inches.
- Bioload of Uaru Cichlid has been increased slightly.
- Bioload of Satanoperca jurupari has been increased slightly.
- Male to female ratio has been assigned to Swordtales.
- Bioload of Nimbochromis venustus has been increased slightly.
- Separate male and female entries have been added to Swordtales due to their size discrepancies (hence different bioloads)
- Bioload of Yellow Perch has been reduced slightly.
- Size of Aulonocara jacobfreibergi has been increased to 7 inches.
- Bioload of Lepomis gibbosus has been increased slightly.
- Adjusted pH requirement for Garnet Tetra.
- Bioload of Clown Killifish has been reduced slightly.
- Reduced aggrssion of Blood Parrot.
- Bioload of Lampeye Killifish has been reduced slightly.
- Bioload of Bumblebee Goby has been reduced slightly.
- Bioload of Marble Hatchet has been increased slightly.
- Bioload of Rummynose Tetra has been increased slightly.
- Bioload of Rosy Red Minnow has been increased slightly.
- Bioload of Blind Cave Tetra has been increased slightly.
- Bioload of Penguin Tetra has been increased slightly.

- Added Sacem Marathon series filter.
- Added Jebo 178 filter.
- Added Aqua World series filters.

- Added 16g Aqueon bowfront tank dimension.

- Total number of filters in DB has been increased to 296.
- Total number of tanks in DB has been increased to 81.
- Total number of species in DB has been increased to 850.

To access the application, please click on AqAdvisor site.

If you have any species that are missing in AqAdvisor DB, please let me know!!!

What's new for 2010 04 11 build:

- Added Indonesian Snakehead (Channa Micropeltis).
- Added Orangespotted Snakehead (Channa aurantimaculata).
- Added Emperor Snakehead (Channa marulioides).
- Added Bullseye Snakehead (Channa marulius).
- Added Whiteseam Fighter (Betta albimarginata).
- Added One-Spot Betta (Betta unimaculata).
- Added Snakehead Fighter (Betta channoides).
- Added Pygmy Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia pygmaea).
- Added Red-Finned Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia rubripinnis).
- Added Fly River Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia sexlineata).
- Added Chequered Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia splendida inornata).
- Added Olga Cory (Corydoras simulatus).
- Added Haplochromis nyererei.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Polypterus palmas buettikoferi has been reduced.
- Aggression for Honduran Red Point has been reduced slightly.
- Bioload of Banded Archerfish has been increased slightly.
- Some of the warnings for Betta Imbelis has been removed.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Dwarf Gourami has been increased to 20x10 (10g).
- Mouth size of Pictus Catfish has been increased to 2 inches.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Golden Oto has been increased to 20x10 (10g).
- Bioload of Bluegill Sunfish has been increased slightly.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Polypterus retropinnis has been reduced.
- Bioload of Electric Blue Hap has been increased slightly.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Polypterus mokelembembe has been reduced.
- Bioload of Green Sunfish has been increased slightly.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Polypterus teugelsi has been reduced.
- Bioload of Pumpkinseed has been increased slightly.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Polypterus endlicheri endlicheri has been reduced.
- Bioload of Red Empress has been increased slightly.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Polypterus endlicheri congicus has been reduced.
- Bioload of Redear Sunfish has been increased slightly.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Polypterus ansorgii has been reduced.
- Bioload of Redeye Tilapia has been increased slightly.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Polypterus senegalus senegalus has been reduced.
- Bioload of Warmouth has been increased slightly.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Polypterus delhezi has been reduced.
- Bioload of Butterfly Peacock has been increased slightly.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Polypterus palmas palmas has been reduced.
- Bioload of Labeotropheus Fuelleborni has been increased slightly.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Polypterus palmas polli has been reduced.
- Bioload of Placidochromis electra has been increased slightly.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Polypterus lapradei has been reduced.
- Minimum tank size requirment for Pristella Tetra has been increased to 20x10 (10g).
- Minimum tank size requirment for Oto has been increased to 20x10 (10g).
- Minimum tank size requirment for N. Brevis has been increased to 20x10 (10g).
- Minimum tank size requirment for Cardinal Tetra has been increased to 20x10 (10g).

- Added Rapids Mini Canister Filter.

- Added 20g x high (20x10x24) tank dimension.
- Added 30g x high (24x12x25) tank dimension.

- Total number of filters in DB has been increased to 297.
- Total number of tanks in DB has been increased to 83.
- Total number of species in DB has been increased to 863.

To access the application, please click on AqAdvisor site.

If you have any species that are missing in AqAdvisor DB, please let me know!!!

What's new for 2010 04 18 build:

- Added Ctenochromis horei.
- Added Achara Catfish/Marbled Pim (Leiarius marmoratus).
- Added False Julii Cory (Corydoras trilineatus).
- Added Mono Sebae (Monodactylus sebae).
- Added Telmatochromis dhonti.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Neolamprologus Similis has been increased to 20x10.
- Marked all Otocinclus species as being compatible with Dwarf Puffer.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Flag Tetra has been increased to 20x10.
- Reassigned Rubberlip pleco as an alias to Rubbernose Pleco.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Otocinclus cocama has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Von Rio Tetra has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Neolamprologus Multifasciatus has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Head and Tail Light Tetra has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Hatchet has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Harlequin Rasbora has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Flame Tetra has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Dwarf Pencilfish has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Black Neon Tetra has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Red Phantom Tetra has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Neon Tetra has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Mosquito Rasbora has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Golden Dwarf Barb has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Rasbora rubrodorsalis has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Swift Rasbora has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Panda Tetra has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Emerald Eye Rasbora has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Yasuhikotakia sidthimunki has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Endler has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Pygmy Cory has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Dwarf Cory has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Green Neon Tetra has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Espei Rasbora has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Ember Tetra has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Dwarf Rasbora has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Celestial Pearl Danio has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Nana Rasbora has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Microrasbora kubotai has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Honey Blue Eye has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Danio erythromicron has been increased to 20x10.
- Minimum tank size requirement for Dwarf Livebearer has been increased to 20x10.

- Fixed a bug: When only 1 kind of species are selected, territorial space calculation was not being reported correctly, hence did not report a warning when too many of the same species were present by themselves. This has been fixed.

- Added Hydor Prime 10/30 filters.
- Added All Pond Solutions EF series filters.
- Added Hagen Fluval G3/G6 filters.

- Total number of filters in DB has been increased to 303.
- Total number of tanks in DB has been increased to 83.
- Total number of species in DB has been increased to 869.

To access the application, please click on AqAdvisor site.

If you have any species that are missing in AqAdvisor DB, please let me know!!!

I have been working hard on the salt water version of AqAdvisor. Initially, it will be somewhat simple and will only feature few species at a time. Hopefully with some help, saltwater species DB will grow as well. I am hoping that the early version will see its light starting next Sunday! I'd like to focus on few species at a time and get the accuracy nailed earlier on. I will continue to develop the freshwater version though - features like support for plants and sumps are still planned.

What's new for 2010 04 25 build:

- Updated the minimum tank size requirement for swordtales to 20x10! I realize this is small given the size of the species, but with a reason. If you want to see the thread that talks about this topic, please PM me, I can provide the link.
- Silvertip Tetra has been marked as fin nippers.
- Red Eye Tetra has been marked as fin nippers.
- Penguin Tetra has been marked as fin nippers.
- Tiger Barb, Green Tiger Barb and Albino Tiger Barbs have been marked as common shoalers.
- "Seriously overstocked" warning has been split into two levels and the lower level warning has been toned down.

- Total number of filters in DB has been increased to 303.
- Total number of tanks in DB has been increased to 83.
- Total number of species in DB has been increased to 869.

To access the application, please click on AqAdvisor site.

If you have any species that are missing in AqAdvisor DB, please let me know!!!

New feature: Saltwater version has been released in this release. Initially it will only features 14 species. Please look at the instructions on the application page for requesting new species and reporting incorrect results. Suggestions are also welcome! This release is highly experimental - significant efforts will be spent improving this version of the application.

While the bioload of swordtails would be fine in 10 x 20 size, their behaivor makes them not really contained very well in that size. A male swordtail's courtship display can cover close to a yard very quickly if given the space, and a female's attempts to avoid the male in such a small space eventually ends up in one or the other being a carpet surfer.

Bioload fine, activity level not ok for that size tank.

My common sense agrees with you as well, especially considering their sizes but this is what I've got from another board. My original minimum size was significantly larger than 10g.

"One immediate example of a species whose "minimums" aren't quite correct is the swordtails. Granted, the consensus on the net is actually wrong about this as well, based on a misquoted early "rule" that you wanted to keep swordtails in groups of at least TEN (a rule that has since been roundly debunked, though the capacity needed for 10 swords lives on!). But I'll go ahead and cite Kathleen Wood, a successul keeper and author, who has demonstrated success in care, long-term housing, community inclusion, and breeding of swordtails in standard-dimension aquariums HALF the size your site lists as the "minimum" for a breeding trio. She has even recommended them to newbies as a good use of 10-gallon aquariums, and I haven't heard about any complaints that it was creating failure. Some sites (fishlore.com) do reflect this as a "more correct" minimum. One reason that the minimum size of an aquarium for a Swordtail is often greatly overstated is the effect that their tail has on the overall length of the fish. Up to half of a Swordtail is tail! I know Kathleen's been successful with them in 10 gallons for a great deal of time. I've experienced a lot of success with them in a 15-gallon standard, and I just recently became aware that even Sea World regularly keeps them in a 15 gallon (why Sea World is keeping swordtails, I don't know, but I digress)!"

I can give you the URL of this thread and let you challenge this guy, if you like.

As a goldfish keeper I can not disagree with either Achaicus or yhbae. I can open this to debate. IMHO swords can thrive in a in an aquarium as small as 15 gallon. Can it be done long term I think so. I'm not the person to answer this question not a chance.
But what do you want to know about a Goldfish

Rick

So how about goldfish... In your opinion, is AqAdvisor reporting a reasonable stocking % along with right water change volume/schedule?

I did collect some feedback from some goldfish keepers in the past, so I hope its in line with your expectation.

yhbae
My standard care sheet

Do not overstock

The first basic rule to healthy fish is NOT to overstock. Use at least 10 gallons of water per goldfish, more for commons and comets.
Plan for the Future

He may look like a tiny thing but goldfish live long lives and grow continuously. You need to cover the tank as goldfish may jump.
If you take care of the water, the water will take care of the fish

* Treat your tap water with a high quality tap water conditioner that will neutralize chlorine/chloramines and detoxify heavy metals from your tap water.
* Measure it for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH to make sure the water is stable and non toxic.
* Filter it. The filter on your goldie tank should pass the tank’s entire water volume through the filter at least ten times per hour. Your filter traps trap debris and particles in your tank and also serves as a home for the bacteria that keep the water happy by converting ammonia (toxic) into nitrIte (still toxic) into nitrAte (less toxic). It will take several weeks to establish your biological filter .
* Perform partial water changes weekly or biweekly (20-40%) to take care of the waste not dealt with in the biological cycle and to replenish the minerals and other good stuff the goldfish have used up.
* Clean the filter by rinsing filter media (the fuzzy stuff) in some tank water twice a month.
* Clean the gravel. Vacuum parts every time you do a partial water change. .

Goldfish are living beings and need oxygen

* Provide large surface area. Goldfish fare better in tanks that are long, rather than tall. Longer tanks provide a larger surface area for optimal gas exchange.
* Make sure there is surface movement.
* Do not overstock. More fish means less oxygen per fish.
* Perform partial water changes and tank cleaning weekly. Your tank maintenance assist oxygen production because as you remove dying plant, debris and uneaten food you reduce the number of oxygen consuming bacteria.
* Watch for gasping.

Goldfish have preferences

* Keep a stable temperature around 76F
* pH should be over 7 (preferably over 7.4). However if your KH (which measures your alkalinity) is low (under 80 PPM) you may see pH swings and if you experience pH drops between waterchanges you should look into increasing your alkalinity (KH) so your pH stays stable. Crushed coral or crushed oystershell added to a high flow area can also be used to increase KH and keep pH stable.
* Some hardness (GH) makes for happier fish
* Lights. Goldfish need to see to find food and have fun. Unless your room is bright add artificial fluorescent light. But remember that goldfish do like dark periods as well.

Goldfish are creatures of habit. Keep things stable

* Don't tinker too much. Goldfish adapt to a wide range of pH and hardness. What they really need is for you to keep it stable so they do not have to adjust too often.
* Use a heater to keep the temperature stable. Goldfish can adjust to a wide range. But around 76 Fahrenheit is a good temp for most fancy varieties.
* Use a thermometer to measure temperature. And make sure the temperature of the change water is the same as the temperature of the tank water.

Ammonia: should be 0ppm.

Symptoms include: irritation, flashing, black areas, frayed fins, darting back and forth in the tank in uncontrollable spasms, spinning in small circles, and finally laying on the bottom.

How toxic ammonia is in your tank depends on your water temperature and pH. Higher water temperature and higher pH make ammonia more toxic. If you pH is 8 you're going to have to work harder at keeping ammonia levels low than if your pH is 7.

Treatment:

* Reduce feeding. High protein foods result in more ammonia. Feed low protein foods like fresh veggies until your biofilter bacteria catch up.
* Vacuum the substrate well. The bacteria that consume debris produce ammonia, so reducing the debris in the tank should reduce ammonia production.
* If your tap water has little or no ammonia after it's dechlorinated, partial water changes will help to bring ammonia down to safe levels. Either Prime or Amquel can also be used to convert ammonia to its less toxic form, however, you must have a 2 bottle ammonia test kit or you will not get accurate water test readings. The Seachem Ammonia Alert card will still give accurate ammonia readings when using Prime or Amquel. Note that if your water isn't well buffered (low KH), Amquel will lower your pH (Make it too acidic), so you will most likely have to buffer with baking soda to keep that from happening.
* Ammonia adsorbing resins such as zeolite can also be used, however, they are just a temporary bandaid.


NitrIte: should be 0ppm

NitrIte is toxic. It enters thru the gills and binds up the red blood cells keeping them from being able to carry oxygen. Salt helps protect against nitrIte poisoning because the chlorine in it competes with nitrIte for uptake through the gills. You should not see detectable levels of nitrIte in an established tank. If you are detecting nitrIte in an established tank, you need to reexamine your filtration, fish load and husbandry practices.

Symptoms include: Oxygen seeking behavior. e.g. rapid gill movements, staying near the top of the top, gulping air, etc, lethargy, gills are brown instead of bright cherry red.

Treatment:

* Reduce feeding. High protein foods result in more ammonia and thus more nitrIte. Feed low protein foods like fresh veggies sparingly until your biofilter bacteria catch up.
* Vacuum the substrate well. The bacteria that consume debris produce ammonia, so reducing the debris in the tank should reduce ammonia and thus nitrIte production.
* Partial water changes will help to bring nitrIte down to safe levels. Add salt at one (1) teaspoon per gallon of water. Predissolve in tank water and make sure it disperses well when you add it. You can use table salt as long as it doesn't contain yellow prussiate of soda. Rock salt and picking are cheap and work well. Until nitrIte drops to 0ppm, when you do partial water changes just add one tsp of salt per gallon changed untill nitrItes come down to 0, then you can skip adding any more salt. Your partial water changes will then remove it over time.


Nitrate: 0-40ppm (optimal)

Symptoms: can cause flip over problems, dilated blood vessles in fins, decreased immune response.

Treatment: partial water changes will help to bring nitrAte down to safe levels. Adding fast growing plants may also help keep nitrAte from building up.


pH/KH: 7.5-8.3 (Optimal range)/ 120-300ppm

If your pH is lower, it will have a tendency to slip down over time. If pH gets down to 6, it can be deadly for your fish and for the bacteria that keep your water happy. The pH of blood is around 7.4 and there are only a layer of two of cells between the fish's blood and the water. Rapid swings in pH or extreme pH can cause the blood to get too alkaline or too acidic.

Treatment:

* Partial water changes will help to maintain pH if your water is well buffered (KH around 120ppm).

* Crushed oyster shells, broken up cuttlebone or crushed coral placed inside a media container of mesh bag in a high water flow area will also help maintain pH. They dissolve when pH falls below 7.5 and increase KH (bicarbonates--which help to maintain pH) and GH (your general hardness).


General Hardness (GH): 100+ppm (optimal)

These are the dissolved minerals in your water, primarily calcium and magnesium. Goldfish can tolerate a wide range of hardness levels, and generally your source water should be fine unless it's really really soft (low GH). GH helps to keep your pH from getting too high and aids in the fish being able to maintain proper fluid balance.

Goldfish tanks should be about goldfish

* Decorations. Keep them to a minimum. Goldfish need room to swim. They can get stuck between or under decorations. Avoid sharp decorations that they could get hurt on.
* Substrate. Gravel can provide a home for the bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrAte, however it also provides a breeding ground for bacteria that eat debris and can cause disease. Gravel can also be a hazard if goldfish swallow it or get it stuck in their throats. Either use a shallow layer of gravel small enough to pass through a goldfish, or use a single layer of larger rocks too large to fit in their mouths. You can also have a bare-bottomed tank.
* Tankmates. It is easier to succeed with a goldfish only tank. Tropicals have different requirements and are often sensitive to goldfish medications (like salt). Common Plecos and apple snails do not make good mates as they may suck on goldfish slimecoat and harm or injure them. Smaller hardy snails like trapdoors or small ramshorns would work fine though.
* Plants. Plants can be used with goldfish but not always with success. Goldfish like to think of plants as their own salad bar and you may have to try a few before having success. Good ones to start with are java fern, anacharis, java moss, sword plants, dwarf anubias and Crypts. For more information, see our article on Goldfish and Plants.

Goldfish are omnivours and need good varied food to be healthy and happy

* Feed goldfish once or twice a day (more often if they are babies and juveniles)
* Feed a varied diet
* Do not overfeed.
* If you feed dry food (pellets or flakes) make sure they are good quality ones and not too old
* Feed a varied diet of shrimp; krill and some live foods such as daphnia and worms. See our Goldfish Diner for more ideas for healthy goldfish foods.
* Omnivours like their vegetables. Feed washed greens, spirula, peas, oranges and more.
* Some goldfish are sensitive to dry food - particularly dry flakes. You may have to presoak your dry food or if see problems (like flipover) eliminate it from the diet


Plan for the unexpected

* Quarantine new fish (three to four weeks) to prevent illness spreading
* Have a Hospital Tank ready (or something that will work as a make-up tank) just in case.

Be the best veterinarian you can

* If fish get sick or out of sort try make a specific diagnosis rather than poison fish with too many medicines.
* Always check your water first
* Isolate sick specimens


Thus plenty of water, generous space, regular water maintenance and good healthy food and your goldie should enjoy a long happy life with you

Last but not least: Enjoy your fish!

That's a lot of info.

Thanks.

Interesting on the swordtail thing. I just stated that based on my own experience with a trio in a 10 gallon. One female chased the other constantly and eventually the chased one jumped... then the male hounded the other until it jumped.

We had a cover on the tank but there was a small hole where the filter was situated and they somehow escaped out that space. Their constant bickering and fighting even if had been able to keep them in the tank made the setup with them stressful for me to deal with.

I always found all of the Xiphophorus did better in larger groups seem to cut down on the constant chasing and bickering but it has been a very long time since I kept anything be sides Goldies

Rick

Hmm, this is going to be interesting. To be honest, I had 1M2F combo of platies before and the male ended up eventually stressing the females to near death as well even though this is typically what's being recommended. One one side, someone with tens of years of experience on this species says its fine yet another person had a problem.

I guess fishes really are individually different - some more extreme than others.

What's new for 2010 05 02 build:

- Added Pearl Danio (Danio albolineatus).
- Added Golden Dwarf Cichlid/Goldeneye Cichlid (Nannacara anomala).
- Added Purple Spotted Gudgeon (Morgurnda adspersa).
- Added Empire Gudgeon (Hypseleotris compressa).
- Added Australian Smelt (Retropinna semoni).
- Added Red Fin Caudopunk (Neolamprologus Caudopunctatus).
- Added Neon Blue Cichlid (Paracyprichromis nigripinnis).
- Added Hunch Backed Limia (Limia nigrofasciata).

- Updated the size of Puntius sachsii to 3.0 inches.
- Minimum tank size for Kribensis has been updated to 24x12.
- Different species of Gouramies have been marked as incompatible to each other.
- Mouth size of Frontosa has been increased capable of eating 4.5 inch species when fully grown up.
- Size of female swordtale has been adjusted back to 4 inches (same as the male).

- Added 30g Oceanic Cube tank dimension.

- Total number of tanks in DB has been increased to 84.
- Total number of species in DB has been increased to 878.

To access the application, please click on AqAdvisor site.

If you have any freshwater species that are missing in AqAdvisor DB, please let me know!!! If you disagree with any of the results produced by AqAdvisor, please let me know that too.

If you want to check out the details of the most recent saltwater release (build 2010 04 30), please check out the following thread.