The Christmas Fulu

Scientific Name(s): Xystichromis (Haplochromis) Phytophagus

Common Name(s): The Christmas Fulu
Origin: Now extinct in Lake Victoria the Fulu is common in Lake Kanyaboli. The Fulu can also be found in the Yala swamp of Northern Kenyi.

Family: Cichlidae

Species Type: The fulu is commonly referred to as a Lake Victorian Haplochromis.

Maximum Size: Males will commonly reach 4.5 inches with females being a little smaller.

Life Span: 10+ years if kept healthy

Natural Habitat: Rocky with a sand substrate. Tree branches with decaying plant matter. The fulu is not very fond of eating plants in the aquarium. Fulu’s feed mainly on decomposing sedge leaves, not on healthy leaves. The leaves will not be digested by the fish; nutrition comes from the many microscopic animals found on decomposing leaves.

Diet: In the aquarium as with most fish diet should include a staple pellet. A variety should be offered in the form of frozen and live. Spirulina and other veggies can be fed. Brine shrimp, earthworms and mealworm can be a good meaty supplement.

Temperature: 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

PH: Ph should be 7.5-8.2 and a hardness of 6-7dh should be maintained. (Stable Ph and hardness is more essential than fluctuating conditions)

Minimum Tank Size: If only one male is present 30g-45g would be sufficient. If there is going to be more than one male 55g or more should be provided.

Tank Region: Mainly bottom dwelling fish.

Temperament:
Mildly aggressive towards other tank mates. Males will not tolerate one another and should have territory of their own. A large tank should be provided for tanks with two or more males. The Fulu can be very aggressive during the spawning ritual.

Possible Tank Mates:
This would include other Victorian Haps as well as other African Cichlids with similar requirements and temperament. Two examples of species that have been successfully housed with Xystichromis phytophagus are Brycinus sadleri and Synodontis afrofisheri.

Filtration and Setup:
Vigorous filtration must be combined with regular water changes. With powerful filtration, a 30%-50% water change per week can be enough, provided that you avoid over feeding. Low stocking density will reduce the risk of high levels of nitrogenous waste. Rock caves should be provided for females to hide from males after spawning. Driftwood and live plants can be used as well.

Ideally the volume of the water in the tank should be turned over 10 times per hour (through bacteria harboring media) when using filters such as 'hang on the back's', 'pre-filtered powerheads' or 'air-powered filters'.

When using more advanced filters such as 'canisters', 'wet /dry’s' or 'strait sumps' this turn over rate can be reduced to 4-5 times per hour provided the filter holds enough media.

Coloration:
The male Christmas Fulu is a predominately red fish, with bold black markings. They have several bold black stripes that cross the face, once short stripe that goes from the eye to the ventral fin and two long stripes that go the length of the body. The highest stripe is just under the dorsal fin and the lower of the two starts at the eye and follows the body laterally. Males in breeding coloration will also seem to have an orange tint to their bodies, and will display their solid black ventral fins and white anal fin along with their iridescent, sky blue dorsal fin. The Dominant male will prove himself by making his colors more striking. This is also true at spawning time.

The females are significantly less colorful, having no red orange, white, or bluish makings, but rather a drab dark gray over the entire body. They do, however possess the same black markings on the face and sides as the male. Both sexes have between one and four white egg spots rimmed in black on the anal fin.


Breeding:
The only thing easier than feeding the fulu is breeding them. While these polygamous maternal mouthbrooders are rather easily-bred cichlids, minimizing male aggression and getting fry from the effort requires a bit of planning. The Fulu should be kept in groups of 1m/3-4f and a tank with two or more males should be 55g or more.

The Male Fulu will quickly show it's dominance by showing a vibrant color. There should be hiding places for any other males present and other females. The male will choose a pit and begin digging.

Once a pit has been dug, the male will actively court ripe females with lateral displays in the pit area. A visibly distended abdomen can easily identify a ripe female. If a female is ready to spawn she will follow the male into the pit. The male will then press his splayed anal fin with its bright egg spots against the bottom of the pit, enticing the female to begin spawning. Within a short time the female will begin to lay eggs which are picked up immediately. The female also attempts to pick up the egg spots on the male's anal fin, which is when the male releases sperm to fertilize the eggs in the female's mouth. Spawning typically lasts for 30-45 minutes with young females laying about 30 eggs whereas an older one might release up to 70.

When spawning has been completed, the female leaves (or is chased from the pit area) to seek a quiet place to begin the 14-16 day buccal incubation period. During this time the female does not eat and tries to stay clear of the rest of the colony. The male, on the other hand, begins courting the next available female. The eggs usually hatch within 6-10 days depending on temperature, and the mother continues to care for them as long as she can.

If you are planning to keep the fry moving the female to a holding tank may be a good option. There she can release the fry on her own or when the time is right you can strip the fry from her. The holding tank must have very clean filtered water with a low current. The female will typically release the fry about another 5-7 after the eggs hatch.

Additional Comments:
The Christmas Fulu is a hardy and colorful fish that is easily fed and will breed readily in the aquarium. Its bright colors and bold markings, couples with its relatively small size make it an ideal beginner’s Victorian.


Photo courtesy Dr. Paul Loiselle


Photo by Dave Hansen